Koli Jewellery: An Introduction
Introduction
Throughout history, humans have searched for and used various materials to decorate themselves. The materials used to make ornaments have evolved over time from natural sources, like shells, leaves, seeds, bones, and feathers, to processed materials, such as metal, glass, or clay. Excavations at ancient archaeological sites like the Harappan sites have revealed precious metals like gold and silver, along with semi-precious stones like agate, lapis-lazuli, and jasper. Ornaments also carry symbolic significance—from representing social status to protecting the wearer from harm or warding off evil influences. Every region and community in India has its own distinct style of jewellery, differing in type and design across geographic and ethnographic lines. The details of these differences offer insight into the economy, society, and culture of particular periods and regions.
Historically, gold and silver have been the most commonly used metals for ornament manufacture and production. Due to their high malleability and ductility, these metals can take on a variety of shapes. Gold has been a status symbol since time immemorial. It also functions as a symbol of power and wealth.
The Kolis are known to have a fondness for their gold. One of their communities bears the name 'Son Koli', demonstrating their fondness for gold. This name is believed to have come from the golden color of bhandara (holy turmeric powder), which is sacred and a favorite of their god, the Khandoba of Jejuri. In their language, 'Son' translates to golden. [1] The figurative use of gold in their description of fish,'mhavra haay majha sonyavani' (this fish is my gold), reveals their fondness for it.
Historical records are scant in terms of descriptions of jewelry, ornaments, or accessories worn by the Kolis. This may be because they did not indulge in so much ornamentation. Jose Gerson Da Cunha mentions that the Koli men wear an iron knife around their necks, which they manufacture themselves. These knives served as a distinctive emblem of their tribe. [2] However, we have not observed such knives in the current context.
Reginald Enthoven states that neither Koli men nor women wear anklets. The women wear a heavy silver bracelet (vala) on their right hand. They don't wear any other ornaments on that hand. According to Enthoven, the absence of any adornments on the right hand is a symbol of the agreement between the women and their deity to ensure the fishermen's protection at sea. [3] In her book ‘Mumbaitil Koli Samaj: Kaal Ani Aaj,’ Surekha Sawant mentions that the vala weighs about 25–50 tolas. A tola is a gold unit of measurement. One tola equals ten grams. [4] She explains that the Koli fisherman is at the sea day and night; his life depends on the tides of the sea. The Koli women offer the chooda (bangle) worn on the right hand to the sea, seeking protection from the sea for their husbands. This is the origin of the saying, ek haath daryala dila, which means to give one hand to the sea. Koli women used to wear the vala 70–80 years ago, but they no longer do so today. Another reason Koli women wear the vala in one hand is because they use a heavy knife to cut fish. There is a possibility of glass bangles breaking accidentally in the process. One person wore only the silver vala in one hand to prevent such a mishap. It was believed that the vala provided strength to the hand. Women adorn themselves with green bangles (hirva chooda) during marriage. These green bangles are considered a symbol of marital auspiciousness. There are also instances where the richer Koli women would wear two valas on the same hand. Koli women today don glass and golden bangles. A widow wears bangles made of gold or silver. [5]
Given below is a list of the jewellery worn by the Koli fishing community.
Jewellery worn by Koli Women:
1) Ketak: A type of ornament or accessory that is worn over a hair bun (ambada). The ambada is a characteristic hairstyle of Koli women. It is a practical hairstyle for women busy with various activities throughout the day. Made of gold or silver, the ketak resembles a modern brooch when worn on the hair. People often design it in the shape of rose flowers, buds, and occasionally attach ghungroos (small bells) to the ketak. It is used like a hairpin. [6] With the readily availability of plastic and gold-plated brooches, traditional ketaks made of gold or silver are rare. Indian women accessorize their hair with flowers, festoons, or gajras (small flower garlands), which are usually made from jasmine flowers. Today, one can observe women adorning themselves with artificial flowers and gajras made of plastic or fabric.
2) Gathe: The fish-shaped gold earrings traditionally worn by Koli women are known as gathe, pere, or masole. They weigh about 5–10 grams each (ardha tola and ek tola). [7] These earrings feature a design that shapes two fish into a circle. However, that is not the only design they come in. Some of these gathes are hollow; they are filled with cotton, whereas others are filled with gold or wax. Parents present these earrings to brides on their wedding day and expect them to wear them throughout their lives. The practice of wearing these earrings has gone out of style, and only older Koli women still wear them. Because of the heft of these earrings, the earlobes of older women donning them would become elongated. [8] [9]
3) Karapli/Kaap: Karapli or kaap are big stud earrings made of gold. Koli women wear this type of earring most commonly. They come in various sizes and patterns. [10] Kudi refers to studs that resemble or depict a flower design.
4) Bugri: Bugri are studs made of gold that are worn on the helix, part of the upper ear. These are also called bugadi. [11]
5) Moti: The moti is a gold nose pin traditionally worn by Koli women. It is typically studded with green, violet, or red gemstones and measures about half an inch. [12] Some women also wear fish-shaped nose pins, which have become available on the market in recent times. [13]
a) Nakatli vali: Often referred to as mot or morki, the nakatli vali is a large circular gold nose ring. Today, Koli women rarely wear such nose rings. [14]
b) Nath: The nath is a typical Maharashtrian nose pin. Sawant mentions that the practice of wearing the nath came later (when compared to the moti). It is made up of 21 pearls and has a red or green gemstone in between. Traditionally, a female receives the nath from her mother’s home (maher). The nose is symbolic of respect and status. The purpose behind receiving a nath from the maher is to prevent the daughter’s dignity from falling into someone else’s hands, thereby protecting the family’s worth. [15]
6) Vajrik: The vajrik looks like a band woven out of gold beads. People also refer to it as vajratika or thusi, and they wear it close to their necks, much like a choker. [16]
a) Lakfak haar/jhilmil haar: The lakfak haar or jhilmil haar is a sparkling golden neckpiece that is worn close to the neck like a choker. [17] [18]
b) Chichpeti/Chinchpeti: A chichpeti can be described as an ornament made of small golden boxes fitted on a piece of cloth worn around the neck. The woman who would wear it would have cut the cloth to her measurements, ensuring a tight fit around her neck. [19]
c) Mohan maal: A mohan maal is a chain of gold beads with 5–10 strands. It is 24–30 inches long and is a favourite among the Koli women. [20]
d) Bormaal: Shaped like the bor fruit (Indian jujube), the bormaal is a chain consisting of golden beads. It is 24–26 inches long. [21]
e) Paachucha haar: The paachucha haar is a gold necklace with red gemstones in the middle. The paachucha haar gained prominence in the past and has become less popular in modern times. [22] In Marathi, paachu translates to emerald. However, it is possible that the word ‘paachu’ here refers to the red gemstones.
f) Putlyancha haar: A putli refers to a flat golden coin, which may or may not bear motifs. The motifs usually depict the goddess Laxmi. Eight to ten putlya (coins) make up a putlyancha haar, but the number varies depending on the wearer's wealth. The number of putlya in the necklace indicates wealth. [23]
g) Laxmi haar: A Laxmi haar is a necklace with a depiction of Laxmi on the pendant, the putlya, or other elements of the necklace. [24]
h) Thauja/dorla: Worn by married women, it is a thick mangalsutra with multiple strands of black beads. A thauja, also known as manimagalsut, typically consists of five or nine strands of woven black beads. [25] [26]
i) Kanthi: A kanthi is a neck ornament consisting of three to eight layers, or strands, of gold chains with two asymmetrical pendants. These pendants depict figures of deities, fish, or the names of children, grandparents, and parents. [27] [28] Men also wear the kanthi necklace, which is characteristic of Koli women.
j) Mangalsutra: The mangalsutra showcases multiple strands of black beads, offset by gold beads. The Koli women wear a long and heavy gold mangalsutra, typically referred to as a gathla. [29] Some also have fish or shell pendants included. [30]
7) Patlya: The term refers to the golden bangles worn with the hirva chooda. [31] These bangles are designed so that small hexagons or rectangles appear all around the bangle's arc. These bangles are either plain or inscribed with designs. Widows usually wear patlya without any other bangles or with glass bangles of different colours, typically blue or light green, rather than the usual dark green worn by married women. Golden bangles of various designs supplement the hirva chooda of Koli women today.
8) Gaath: A gaath is a kada (bracelet) with protruding designs on the outer side. It can be opened with a key or screw. Once it's opened, it can be worn and locked again. This ornament is known as gokhar in Marathi. [32]
9) Dolyachi Bangdi: Widows wear the Dolyachi Bangdi, another type of bangle. The design on these bangles resembles a human eye (dolyachi), hence the name. They were made of glass or porcelain (cheeni maati). [33]
10) Rings: In the past, people wore silver rings embellished with pearls. People are now used to wearing gold rings. [34]
11) Kamarpatta: The term "Kamarpatta" denotes a waist-worn silver band. The woman received it from her mother's house, which offered it in a variety of designs and weights. [35]
12) Polare: The term "polare" refers to large anklets with ghongroo, which ring as the wearer moves. Typically, a woman receives these from her mother's family during festivities. [36]
13) Masoli: On the second toe, fish-shaped toe rings are worn. [37]
14) Jodvi: Jodvi, or large silver toe rings, are worn on the third toe. [38] Married women typically wear these.
15) Tode: Worn above the polare, the tode are foot bracelets that weigh around 20–25 tola, almost half a kilogram. Unlike the polare, women wore todes daily. Todes are given to a woman by her in-laws. [39]
Jewellery worn by Koli Men:
Although their jewelry choices are limited, the Koli men are also seen decked out in gold jewelry. In the olden times, a few Koli men also wore gathe in their ears. [40] [41] According to the Gazetteer, the Kolis of Alibaug, Danda, Versova, and Mandwa wear armlets on their left wrists, while the Son Kolis wears bangles on both wrists. [42] Koli men wear the kanthi on special occasions like weddings and during festivals.
1) Kurkya: Kurkya are earrings worn on the helix of the upper ear. These are also known as bali. [43]
2) Chain: Seldom was a chain with a locket in the shape of a tiger claw (vagh nakh) used. [44] Koli men wear gold chains of various designs, lengths, and thicknesses today. Some have a fish or the image of a deity as the locket. [45]
3) Kargota: The term "kargota" refers to a silver waistband. [46]
The Koli men wore silver rings. Although very uncommon, a few men wore vagas on their legs. [47] Koli women also adorned their feet with silver vales. [48]
Jewellery worn by Children
The children donned a chain and a ring. In earlier times, children wore a small bali on their ears. The boys wore a silver kargota around their waists, and the girls wore polares and valas on their feet. [49]
Their forefathers taught the Kolis to fish, with each generation learning from the one before it. Most of them depended on the sea for their livelihood, so education was not always a priority. These earnings could only be invested in gold and fishing boats. If their fishing business was not doing well, the Kolis could procure loans on gold, thus providing for their needs. [50] The Kolis' finances are dependent on the amount of catch and the price they sell it for. These are subject to several factors, making their income unpredictable. In such a situation, gold items are the best form of investment because they retain their intrinsic value.
Nowadays, chain snatching and robbery are not uncommon phenomena. Wearing gold puts one at risk. As such, it is not always feasible to wear their traditional jewellery on a daily basis. However, festive occasions such as Narali Pornima, Shimga (Holi), Gauri Ganpati, or weddings often see them decked up. Over the years, there has been a high demand for gold, and gold prices have seen a remarkable surge. [51] Faux gold imitations of classic Koli jewellery are now on the market and attracting consumers. [52] Compared to gold, faux gold is cheaper and more affordable. It also allows the consumer to upgrade to newer designs without spending as much.
For Koli women, gold is a repository of their wealth. Koli women pass down certain ornaments as family heirlooms from one generation to the next. Time and economic constraints have led to a shift from gold to imitation jewellery in recent times.
Footnotes:
[1] Harad and Joglekar, ‘A Study of Fish Symbolism in the Son Koli Community of Mumbai.’ 121
[2] Da Cunha, The Origin of Bombay, 40
[3] Enthoven, The Tribes and castes of Bombay Vol. II, 257
[4] What is tola? Why gold is measured in tola?, The Times of India
[5] Sawant, Mubaitil Koli Samaj: Kaal ani Aaj, 26-27
[6] Ibid., 25
[7] Ibid.
[8] Harad and Joglekar, ‘A Study of Fish Symbolism in the Son Koli Community of Mumbai’, 125-6
[9] Mumbaikar Folks, Satya Kahani – Koli aajichya kaanatil sonyachya gaathyanchi, Youtube Video
[10] A conversation with Damyanti Dawne of Versova Koliwada
[11] Sawant, Mubaitil Koli Samaj: Kaal ani Aaj, 25
[12] Ibid.
[13] Harad and Joglekar, ‘A Study of Fish Symbolism in the Son Koli Community of Mumbai’, 126
[14] Mumbaikar Folks, Kolis of Bombay, Year 1965-75 Old Video Culture/ Koli samaj pehrav va puratan daagine, YouTube Video
[15] Sawant, Mubaitil Koli Samaj: Kaal ani Aaj, 25
[16] Ibid., 26
[17] Mumbaikar Folks, Traditional Koli Jewellery attire at Versova Koli Sea Food Fest 2024, YouTube Shorts
[18] Mumbaikar Folks, Koli Mahila Sonyache daagine ka ghaalte? Koli daagine Vividh june navin prakar – why koli women fond of gold, YouTube video
[19] Sawant, Mubaitil Koli Samaj: Kaal ani Aaj, 26
[20] Ibid.
[21] Ibid.
[22] Ibid.
[23] Ibid.
[24] A conversation with Damyanti Dawne of Versova
[25] Sawant, Mubaitil Koli Samaj: Kaal ani Aaj, 26
[26] Mumbaikar Folks, Koli Mahila Sonyache daagine ka ghaalte? Koli daagine vividh june navin prakar – why koli women fond of gold, YouTube Video
[27] Ibid.
[28] Harad and Joglekar, ‘A Study of Fish Symbolism in the Son Koli Community of Mumbai’, 126
[29] Mumbaikar Folks, Koli Mahila Sonyache daagine ka ghaalte? Koli daagine Vividh june navin prakar – why koli women fond of gold, YouTube video
[30] Harad and Joglekar, ‘A Study of Fish Symbolism in the Son Koli Community of Mumbai’, 126
[31] Sawant, Mubaitil Koli Samaj: Kaal ani Aaj, 27
[32] Ibid.
[33] Ibid.
[34] Ibid.
[35] Ibid.
[36] Ibid.
[37] Ibid.
[38] Ibid.
[39] Ibid.
[40] Mumbaikar Folks, Kolis of Bombay, Year 1965-75 Old Video Culture/ Koli samaj pehrav va puratan daagine, YouTube Video
[41] Edwards, The Gazetteer of the Bombay City and Island 1, 230
[42] Ibid.
[43] Sawant, Mubaitil Koli Samaj: Kaal ani Aaj, 27
[44] Ibid.
[45] Ibid.
[46] Ibid.
[47] Ibid.
[48] Mumbaikar Folks, Satya Kahani – Koli aajichya kaanatil sonyachya gaathyanchi, Youtube Video
[49] Sawant, Mubaitil Koli Samaj: Kaal ani Aaj, 28
[50] Mumbaikar Folks, Koli Mahila Sonyache daagine ka ghaalte? Koli daagine Vividh june navin prakar – why koli women fond of gold, Youtube video
[51] Why Gold Prices is Increasing in India?, IIFL Finance
[52] Jaisinghani, Now, Kolis don’t just bank on gold, The Times of India
Bibliography:
Damyanti Dawne (resident of Versova Koliwada), in conversation with the author, February 2024.
Books:
1) Da Cunha, José Gerson. The Origin of Bombay. Vol. 20 of Journal of Asiatic Society of Bombay. Society's Library, 1900.
2) Edwards, S. M. The Gazetteer of the Bombay City and Island 1. Cosmo Publications, 1909.
3) Enthoven, Reginald Edward. The Tribes and Castes of Bombay 2. Printed at the Government Central Press, 1922.
4) Sawant, Surekha. Mumbaitil Koli Samaj: Kaal Ani Aaj. Dimple Publication, 2007.
Journal Articles:
Harad, Pranita A., and P. P. Joglekar. "A Study of Fish Symbolism in the Life of the Son Koli Community of Mumbai." Bulletin of the Deccan College Post-Graduate and Research Institute 77 (2017): 121–130.
E-newspaper articles:
1) Jaisinghani, Bella. “Now, Kolis don’t just bank on gold,” The Times of India, August 5, 2009
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/city/mumbai/now-kolis-dont-just-bank-on-gold/articleshow/4857970.cms Accessed: February 21, 2024
2) “What is tola? Why gold is measured in tola?”
The Times of India, September 25, 2017, Updated: April 16, 2020
https://timesofindia.indiatimes.com/business/faqs/gold-faqs Accessed: February 19, 2024
Web Articles:
1) LeGrand, Douglas S. “Early History of Jewelry: Ancient Times to the 17th Century.” International Gem Society.
https://www.gemsociety.org/article/myth-magic-and-the-sorcerers-stone/ Accessed: February 19, 2024
2) “A History of Silver in Jewelry.” Lang Antiques and Estate Jewellery
https://www.langantiques.com/university/a-history-of-silver-in-jewelry/ Accessed: February 19, 2024
3) “The History of Jewelry Metals,” M. S. Rau, November 11, 2022
https://rauantiques.com/blogs/canvases-carats-and-curiosities/the-history-of-jewelry-metals Accessed: February 19, 2024
4) “Why Is Gold Price Increasing in India 2024?” IIFL Finance 15 February 2024
https://www.iifl.com/blogs/gold-loan/why-is-gold-price-rising Accessed: February 21, 2024
YouTube Videos:
1) Ramle, Mohit. “कोळी महिला सोन्याचे दागिने का घालते? कोळी दागिने विविध जुने नवीन प्रकार -Why koli women fond of Gold” Mumbaikar Folks by Mohit Ramle, Youtube video. January 31, 2023. https://youtu.be/vr4cXYzu0EQ?si=AtV5AuhO2ptEqL8W
2) Ramle, Mohit. “#kolis of Bombay - Year 1965 to 1975 #Old Video Culture/कोळी समाज,पेहराव व पुरातन दागिने #ShortFilm” Mumbaikar Folks by Mohit Ramle, YouTube video. April 3, 2021. https://youtu.be/KwdyTWIa2DQ?si=j1LdmaD4kuW2lBAn
3) Ramle, Mohit. “सत्य कहानी - कोळी आजीच्या कानातील सोन्याच्या गाठ्यांची #indigenous Tribal #jewellery #Koli #earrings” Mumbaikar Folks by Mohit Ramle, Youtube Video. September 21, 2021. https://youtu.be/UQfiCjWnkO8?si=M--axjFLQg8ouVk-
4) Ramle, Mohit. “Traditional Koli Jewellery attire at Versova Koli Sea Food Fest 2024.” Mumbaikar Folks by Mohit Ramle, YouTube Shorts. January 22, 2024. https://youtube.com/shorts/u-DjEcnRcVQ?si=YoLy0OaSejnUNObF